An Evening with Great British Chefs, Jason ‘Bruno’ Birkbeck and Nina Matsunaga
As Storm Darragh targeted Sedbergh, on Friday 6th December, it was comforting to take refuge in Queen’s Hall. Even more satisfying to have our senses delighted by the sublime cooking of Nina Matsunaga and Jason ‘Bruno’ Birkbeck. Jason and Nina are two of our region’s, indeed, country’s finest chefs.
Nina Matsunaga is the Head Chef at The Black Bull in Cumbria. Nina grew up in Germany to Japanese parents; both her German background and Japanese heritage have both deeply influenced her way with food – eloquently described by Nina as ‘food diaspora’.
Amongst Nina’s many specialities are game – this particular interest was developed whilst working at Wilton’s in London and ferreting with her husband, James. It was therefore fitting that Nina prepared, amongst other dishes, a rabbit before her audience. Throughout her demonstrations, Nina detailed the importance of working with seasonal ingredients to create dishes of exceptional quality. She emphasised her belief in using the whole animal and being conscious of the context of the food we eat.
Many of Nina’s signature dishes have won her and her talented team successive accolades, including being named in the top 50 gastropubs in the UK; finalist in the Great British Pub Awards for ‘Best Country/ Rural Pub’ and ‘Best Chef’. And, like Jason ‘Bruno’ Birkbeck, Nina featured in the BBC’s, ‘Great British Menu.’
Jason ‘Bruno’ Birkbeck is a Cumbrian lad, hailing from Kendal where he originally learned his craft at Kendal Catering College. Bruno’s impressive career has taken him all over the world with the cornerstone of his work being in some of Scotland’s and the North of England’s most prestigious kitchens.
Bruno trained in Switzerland and ‘cut his teeth’ at The Langdale Hotel and Country Club before joining the Michelin-starred Northcote: Bruno later joined the Michelin-starred, The Samling; then the acclaimed Hipping Hall. He later moved north of the border to The Torridon in the Highlands of Scotland. Bruno holds many awards for his craft including the coveted American Express UK Young Chef of the Year Award.
The audience managed to tease out of the self-deprecating Bruno the fact that he has worked with a multitude of the UK’s finest chefs and led in the many of the world’s leading kitchens. Nods of approval (from the more ‘senior’ members of the audience) when Bruno attributed much of his earlier inspiration to the late Keith Floyd and Gary Rhodes.
Bruno packed the evening’s presentation with homespun signature dishes, inspired by his Irish Grandmother, albeit served with a ‘Bruno’ twist. This was a swine lover’s fantasy – pig’s head used to make black pudding; hock; pig’s cheeks in oyster; crispy pigs ears; cheeks tongue; ventreche bacon and even some eyeball socket.
Like Nina, Bruno invited the audience up to taste his brilliantly crafted dishes. And, like a swarm of locusts, our pupils obliged – clean plates within seconds…
The pupils, staff and guests were no doubt pummelled by the heavy rain as they returned to their respective boarding houses and homes. But, at least their taste buds had been tantalised by two quite remarkable chefs.
Thank you again Nina and Bruno.
Dr Philip Hoskin
